We woke up to the sights of a freezing Lachen (a town in
North Sikkim) at 4:30 am on a cold December morning in anticipation of getting
a glimpse of the Holy Lake of Gurudongmar [in all likelihood, the road to
Gurudongmar maybe shut and I had my fingers crossed] . As most of the town
slept, we warmed our hands from the tea cups as we sipped chai between piling
on 6-7 layers of warm clothing. Our
driver Norge revved the car through the thin layer of ice shrouding the road just
outside out hotel before heading out of town to reach Thangu while the bends in
the road jostled us out of our sleep.
Thangu, 14,000 feet above sea level is a non-descript
village in North Sikkim at the foothill of Gurudongmar Lake. It has its moment of glory when many a
tourist stop here to acclimatize for onward drive to the Holy Lake where the
low oxygen levels would leave even the fittest of the lot breathless!
In the summer months, Thangu is bustling with life till
mid-day and business for the locals running small food stalls is good. However, winter is another ball game for the
locals. While most recede to lower
retches of Sikkim, handful of brave ones cater to keep tourism alive.
We reached Thangu after an hour and a half drive gaining
4000 ft ie from 10000 to 14000 feet amidst views of snow capped Kanchenjunga,
coniferous trees, road peppered with snow and numerous military outfits. Thangu comprised of ten houses and one or two
lodges both sides of the road to Gurudongmar and essentially built on bank of a
river which serves as a source of water for the locals.
Outside the hut |
While there a handful of lodges serving breakfast, we ate
breakfast in a small hut-cum-restaurant run by two women (bhabhi-nanand
relation both of whose husbands were in army).
The hut was very basic and built around the fireplace. As we were 8 of us, we quickly occupied the
bed and wooden slabs around the fireplace and the women got our breakfast (hot
tea and bread-butter-jam started).
The hut and the hut-women quickly warmed up to us and we started a steady stream of conversation between sips of hot tea.
The women (brave women, I must say) spoke about life at such
high altitude and how they brave the winter by catering to the tourists to earn
some extra money. Interestingly, the
need to stay thin even in such cold climate keeps them from having butter, sugar and quintessential Sikkimese butter-chai
as recommended by their grandmothers to stay desirable for their man. Even the thought of no butter and sugar sent
shiver down our spine as we warmed our hands at a makeshift heater around the
house chimney.
The Kitchen! |
The hut and the hut-women quickly warmed up to us and we started a steady stream of conversation between sips of hot tea.
Huddled around for chai and warmth |
One breakfast at Thangu and the realization hit home. Firstly it was so true that no matter where
you live or how rich/ poor you are the need to look pretty/ presentable is
universal. Secondly, interacting with
these women also made me realize that happiness is but a state of mind – these
women looked happy, they were happy!
Hence, no amount of material things will make you happy if you are not
at peace with yourself and thankful for all that you have.
And no, ultimately we did not get to visit Gurudongmar – but
I was thankful for having met these women and with the (safe) decision taken by
our driver to get a view of Chopta valley an alternative!