Quarter 1 of my challenge was rather exciting and
interesting. While quarter 2, in
contrast, was dull – the only high-point being a long pending, full-fledged family
trip to Kashmir.
April 2016
Kashmir: where
Tulips bloom
I visited Srinagar (just for a day!) in June 2015 as a part
of road trip to Ladakh. At that time I was
rushing from one place to another, trying to see as much of Srinagar as
possible. But the best memory I have of
Srinagar was our lovely and relaxing stay at Peacock Houseboat, Nigeen lake. Nine months later, here I was again on a
rainy April morning, sitting in the balcony of our bnb (Bloomingdale) and
sipping on Kahwa. The chatter of fluffy sparrows and a nice book gave me
company. This wonderful bnb run by Mr
Firdaus was to be our base for the Kashmir trip.
Srinagar
Our itinerary, although packed, had a fair mix of nature,
architecture, trails and relaxation.
Upon landing, we visited the famous Tulip garden. These flowers are known to be rather delicate
and the untimely rain in April was already damaging the last standing
tulips. I guess we were fortunate enough
to see rows and rows of bright tulips gently swaying in the wind, touched by
the rain drops.
Such a feast for the
eyes!
Our city sojourn included visit to the ancient Shankaracharya temple (about 350 stairs), enjoying commanding views of Dal from Pari Mahal, relaxing at Shalimar bag to the sound of fountains and under the shade of Chinar trees (leaves are like those of Maple tree), sunset over Dal lake from Nishat gardens and sunset Shikara ride at Dal lake. It is so difficult to pick a favourite, but I’m partial to sunsets; no guess here what my favourite would have been.
Sonmarg
No touristy circuit is complete without visiting Sonmarg, Gulmarg
and Pahalgam. In June 2015 I had seen
the lush meadows of Sonmarg, dotted with adorable sheep and framed by the snow
clad mountains. Hence it was amusing to
see Sonmarg covered in snow. My family
had a gala time snow sledging and making snow man and snow angels! My brother and I preferred climbing Sonmarg
on foot, in knee deep snow and bearing the brunt of numb feet. The panoramic views from the top made the
effort worthwhile, hot maggi added to our small joys!
Gulmarg
Covered in a blanket of snow, Gulmarg left me rapt. As our Gondola (lift which we took to second
level) ascended, we could see the mighty mountain lined with poplar trees and
rustic shepherd huts. Until the first
level the snow was walked upon (footprints were visible) and at the first level
is was a sea of people indulging in snow activities (skiing, snowboarding,
etc). The ascend to the second level was
far from gentle and commanded mighty views of the bright blue sky and the
majestic mountains.
Our gondola dropped
us at second level and after some trouble with breathing/ head-ache, I
thoroughly enjoying the expanse of snow around and giving my brother company
while he shot a time-lapse. There was a
lake beyond second level which people can access in summers. Also, we were told
that the Pakistan border is a stone’s throw away. Thereafter, we joined the hoardes of people
and enjoyed snow activities at level one.
I had learnt basic skiing in 2006 andalso skied one at ski Dubai in
2009. Hence, it was exhilarating to ski
again! We did a day trip to Gulmarg, but there are nice hotels where one can
stay the night. For avid skiiers, a trip
here in January/ February would make for a perfect ski-cation!
Pahalgam
Unfortunately while we were in Srinagar, there was Bandh
declared which limited our options. The
drive to Pahalgam was long, but without stops as it was not quite safe on this
route, although tourists are rarely harmed. Pahalgam was very crowded, the
touristy-ness of the place got to me and all the youngsters in our group
decided to boycott a horse ride to Mini Switzerland and decided to climb
instead. This did not go down well with
horse owners who followed us for a fair bit of the trek and then gave up
realizing how determined we were. Mini
Switzerland (Baisaran) has stunning landscape – a perfectly meadow atop a hill!
There isn’t much to do here and many people head onwards to Tuliyan Lake. Next
we made a quick stop at Aru valley (the drive next to Lidder river was
picturesque - but the place did not quite appeal to us) and Chandan wadi (sheer
waste of time, but one route of Amarnath yatra starts from here), but didn’t
have time to see Betaab valley (apparently it is very well developed).
Yousmarg
A clear high-point and my undoubted favourite was a day trip
to Yousmarg. On our way we stopped by
Charer-e-Sharif dargah and random viewpoints to soak in the views of meandering
roads lined with sarson and apple orchads.
Here we trekked (in mostly sludge) on the meadows, beyond the cobbled
path and down to the river. A shepherd guide gave us company and also insights
into the life in Yousmarg. The best things I liked about Yourmarg was the lack
of tourists and untouched meadows! I wish I could stay here in the wooden
cottages run by J&K tourism – alas, in the next trip!
Shopping and Old Srinagar
The shopping almost towards the end of the trip was
enjoyable, while the drive/ walk through Lal chowk in the heart of Old Srinagar
during the Bandh (thanks to the bravery of Mr Firdaus) was very scary. Needless to say, I did not leave Kashmir
without spending a night in a houseboat (apple orchad), this time at Dal lake. This definitely is the good life!
Star-gazing at
Naneghat
I had an 8-man tent lying around for years and an itch to try
my hand at star trail ever since I bought a wired remote control for DSLR. On the day of full moon (7th May),
6 of us hired a car (from Myles) and left from Mumbai at 5 pm for
Naneghat. The plan was to (hopefully) shoot
some fancy star trails, light a bbq, cook chicken, sausages and paneer for
dinner, with some kingfisher beers by the side (we were fully stocked and
loaded with beers in a neat ice box!)
We took unreasonably long to reach Naneghat. By the time we got there it was close to 10
pm. We quickly pitched our tent and
tried to get the bbq started, but the wind played havoc. Luckily there was another group who were
cooking/ bbq-ing inside a cave (to our horror and dismay!) and we got some fire
from them (literally, by burning a few coal embers from their barbeque). Soon it was almost 11:30 and we set-up out
cameras for the star trails. There were
other groups for star gazing and star trails and there was so much commotion
and torch-light that it was impossible to ensure a dark sky. Within no time the clouds came rushing in and
hid all the stars and tainted our plan to shoot star trail.
Instead of being upset by the loss of opportunity, we
enjoyed our BBQ and drinks. Sleeping in
the tent was a good experience as well, albeit the stones poking through the
bottom of the tent. Early in the morning
we climbed on the mountain to get a view of the surrounding area. It was then that we realized that the frame
we had chosen for star trail actually had many high-tension electricity wires
passing through! Lesson learnt, go early
and set-up early.
After that we had a delightful breakfast of poha at a
villager’s home and started back for Mumbai.
Wine & dine –
Pune & Sula
June had me worried.
Initially I had no plan to travel and then I had a fantastic plan to
visit Coastal Karnataka (Karwar & Gokarna).
However, my body had other plans and it caught a nasty fever. I was on antibiotics for over 8 days and the
travel plan was shelved.
When my health improved, we visited Pune (day trip) and had
amazing food at Malaka Spice, Koregaon Park.
The outdoor seating was tastefully done.
Also, the sheer variety of the oriental food they served boggled me! Among
other things, dishes which stood out were Madurasi soup (Indonesian), three
mushroom stir fry, Top Hat (Malaysian dish comprising of rice cups stuffed with
flavourful minched veggies) and chocolate brownie with ice cream (we ordered 3
portions between the 4 of us - gluttony!)
My favourite cousin was in town. Besides, how could I say no
to wine?! Because Sula vineyard is always a good idea!
We drove to Sula, stopping at Shree Datta Snacks for
breakfast-cum-brunch (where we hogged like pigs and ran a measley bill). At Sula we had multiple agendas, all of which
involved wine – white, red, sparkling….
While wining, we forgot the dining, so you do get the point :) One glass a day is
healthy right? While in Sula, we ensured we’d be healthy for a couple of days,
if not more!
2 comments:
Hello Preeti! Browsing through Reading List, found that you have not posted anything for more than a year. Should hope you haven't stopped travelling, though.
Loved your Kashmir pics! Only time I visited Kashmir was more than 35 years back, when I was in school and the visit was with family on my father's LTC. Still remember the rice tinted with zafran and some delicious curries, the ropeway at Khilanmarg and the trout fishing at Pehalgam etc etc.
Do keep blogging!
Dear Soumyendu, I've been off the grid though I haven't stopped traveling. However I'm not inspired to write. Hopefully I can keep posting smaller extracts....
I've been to Kashmir twice.... It is touristy but I love it... You should revisit the place :)
Br,
Preeti
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