Showing posts with label udupi. Show all posts
Showing posts with label udupi. Show all posts

Tuesday, May 3, 2016

12 months 12 trips - Quarter 1 round up


I have a track record of breaking New Year resolutions within the first few weeks of January.  But what do you expect if the envisaged goals center on fitness, eating right, reading more, etc! However, this year my goal is far more engaging and completely driven by “wanderlust”.  I strive to take a trip every month i.e. 12 months 12 trips! Yes, as crazy as it sounds and as damaging it is to my bank balance, travel is what drives me.

Bekal Fort, North Kerala
I was mulling over this idea for a while now.  In fact, in 2015 I travelled quite extensively without such an ambitious travel goal [Jan – Thailand/ Cambodia, March – Udaipur and around & Delhi, April – Goa, June – Srinagar & Leh, Ladakh, July – Goa, September– Harne/ Murud, October – Hampi, Badami, Pattadakal & Bangalore, November – Dubai, December – Sri Lanka]. In summary I travelled in all months of 2015 except February, May and August which is a pretty exciting year of travel!

In 2016, I plan to take this love for travel to another level by traveling once each month.  The plan is to do a good mix of long vacations (full-time job does not permit otherwise!) and weekend breaks.  I also hope to cover a fair variety of mountains, beaches, architecture/ historic places and some adventure.

Thus far, I have taken 3 trips (errr….4 if you count a spill over trip from 2015) in the first quarter of 2016 i.e. one in each month.  Here is a quick round-up:

January 2016
Sri Lanka (the spill-over from 2015!)


New year fireworks at Hikkaduwa beach, Sri Lanka
Just like New Year ’s Eve in 2015 (Arc’s Bar, Koh Samui), I brought in this new year at a beach.  This time we were dancing and drinking away at a beach restaurant in Hikkaduwa, Sri Lanka.

Selfie at Blue Deep Diving Centre, Hikkaduwa, Sri Lanka

 

"All Ok", diving with the great instructors at Blue Deep Diving, Hikkaduwa
Hikkaduwa is a beautiful coastal town in Southern Sri Lanka.  We spent 4 glorious days here connecting with the ocean. Frolicking on the beach, watching turtles wade in the sea, trying our hand at surfing and exploring the zen world while reconnecting with scuba diving after nearly a year and so on...

 

Between the trips to the beach, we hogged on Sri Lankan hoppers, rotti, leisurely breakfast of pancakes, omelettes and fruits and lots of seafood!

Sunsets are grander at Hikkaduwa beach, Sri Lanka
The sunsets in Sri Lanka are grander and people are very warm.  The country owes a lot to tourism and has so much natural beauty to offer! I do hope to return here, maybe explore the east coast and Yala national park next time around!

Mangalore, Udupi and Bekal

Iconic light-house at Kapu beach, Udupi 
Karnataka is my new found love.  This time I set out to explore South-West Karnataka by beach bumming at the pristine beaches of Mangalore/ Udupi between sampling the Mangalorean cuisine (prawn ghee roast <3 content.="" heart="" nbsp="" our="" p="" s="" to="">

Must visit St Aloysuis Chapel, Mangalore
We also paid a visit to St. Aloysuis Chapel in the college campus by the same name. This Chapel is an architectural wander and has interiors in the Roman style. The paintings on the Chapel wall are intricate and very well preserved.  In fact, they do not allow photography inside! But This Chapel is a must visit!

Note two hot babes and iconic rock formations in the background!
It was end January and the region was very hot, but the numerous rounds of coconut water kept me cool. The most exciting part of the trip was St Mary’s island, where one finds strange rock formations made of basaltic rock supposedly when Madagascar broke away from Indian sub-continent.

Bekal Fort, North Kerala
We spent the last day of our trip at Bekal which is best known for Bekal Fort which juts out into the sea. 

Taj Bekal, you beauty!!
However, we made a quick trip to the fort and we were more than happy to simply unwind (in style!) at the Taj Vivanta property in Bekal (North Kerala)

My favorite part of our room, the swing overlooking backwaters, Taj Bekal 
The property is sprawling and boasts of an exclusive stretch of back-waters and it’s own private beach!  The earthy feel of the rooms with houseboat style roof, the traditional swing in the balcony overlooking the backwater and the swimming pool offering sunset views made our stay here very special.  

Swimming pool, backwaters and a sneak peak of the private beach!
To add to it, the hearty breakfast buffets and the chef recommended sea food for dinner at their sea-side restaurant while listening to the sound of the waves was the high-point.  

Backwaters, Taj Bekal
This property is the reason why so many people visit Bekal on a relaxing/ rejuvenating holiday.  No wonder it was difficult to part.

(Room for two cost us about INR 10,000/- = rates as on January 2016)

February 2016
Unravelling mysteries of Lonar crater, Maharashtra

Panaroma of Lonar crater
 It’s ironical how far and wide I travel, but rarely consider a trip in Maharashtra. Having read so much about Lonar crater (Buldhana district, Maharashtra), an action packed trip finally materialized just when February was bidding adieu. 

Unique rocks at Lonar
Lonar crater is one of a kind crater formed in basaltic rock some 50,000 years ago when a meteorite collided with Earth and left a deep burrow.  Today this burrow is a lake whose water is both saline and alkaline and is also a thriving habitat for birds and unique flora.

MTDC property, Lonar, Buldhana district, Maharashtra
We left Mumbai at 4 am and after driving through Malshej ghat, Aurangabad, etc finally made it to Lonar by 4 pm.  Lonar is almost 600 kms from Mumbai and it was very ambitious to do a one-night stay trip to Lonar, instead two night stay here is recommended.  We checked into the MTDC property (best stay option here and pre-booking is necessary), located at the periphery of the crater and quickly signed up with a guide to show us around the crater during sunset & guide us to a hike to the crater for sunrise the next day.

Viewing deck
We drove to the look-out point halfway across the MTDC property and enjoyed unobstructed view of the crater.  In photos, it just looks like a not-so-large green water body, but in reality the crater/ lake is huge with a diameter of 1.8 kms. 

Sunsets at Lonar
Thereafter, we visited the hanuman temple and enjoyed the sunset. Next morning was very exciting.  Our guide took us inside the crater and showed us around the numerous ruins of temples which dot the crater.  Some of the temples are being reconstructed, while majority are inhabited by bats! There are some temples which have carvings of figurines in Kamasutra poses, much like the UNESCO site of Khajuraho.

Green water of Lonar lake and winged friends
However, nothing beats the awesomeness of the lake, if you discount the strong odour of sulphur! The water is absolutely green and is covered by blue moss at several areas.  Early in the morning several winged friends were flying about of pecking on food along the lake which is why this lake is a birders paradise. There were also our predecessors (monkeys) playing about in the lush trees at the edge of the lake, trying their best to dodge the huge bee hives! 

Kamalja Devi temple, Inside Lonar crater
Most-touristy point of the crater is the Kamalja Devi Temple inside the crater. It sees a steady stream of devotees trickling in through the year.  We said our prayers and set off to finish our periphery inside the crater.  We ended the 4-hour walk at Gomukh temple where one can take a shower in the natural spring water which cascades down the artificially made holy-bath area.  Apart from the crater, we also visited the Daitya sudan temple (Vishnu temple with carvings akin to Khajuraho temples).

Our guide mentioned that the Lonar crater comes alive after monsoons, although the water level rises sharply.  A good enough reason to revisit? – only time will tell!

March 2016
Haridwar and Rishikesh


Meandering Ganges
Pilgrims are drawn to Haridwar, foreigners are charmed by Rishikesh/ yoga by the Ganges , well for me the biggest draw was rafting in the Ganges.  A cousin’s wedding in Haridwar was the perfect excuse to strike the rafting off my bucket list!  I spent 3 days and 2 nights in Haridwar of which majority time was spent in the weddings ceremonies and the balance in sight-seeing.  


Thereafter, we had a full day of rafting pre-planned (cost us about 2500 including vehicle and rafting the 24 kms stretch from Marine drive) on our last day. Our rafting company picked us up at out hotel in Haridwar and after driving for 1 hour we reached the office of our rafting company.  There we picked up our gear – life jacket, helmets and oar and set-off for a 45 minutes’ drive to Marine drive (starting point of our 24 kms rafting). The road was meandering and gave us stunning view of River Ganges throughout.

The gang!
At marine drive, we suited-up and got a briefing from our instructor.  Thereafter we set-off for a a few kms of lazy rafting, peppered with insane double rapids.  As the summer was just setting in, the water level in Ganges was quite shallow in parts exposing the rock-bed underneath and making rafting more dangerous.  Thus, having an experienced and friendly guide helped.


Our rafting route from Marine drive to Shivpuri (approx. 11 kms) took us about 2.5 hours whereby we tackled some popular rapids such as cross-fire, 3 blind mice, etc. Thereafter, we completed the stretch from Shivpuri to Rishikesh in another 2 hours. The rapids in this stretch were difficult and the rain/ thunder storm made it harder to row.  Luckily, the hot tea and vegetable maggi at the most-looked-forward to halt at Maggi point (approximately 3 kms short of Rishikesh) energised us.   The last stretch to Rishikesh was interesting with views of the numerous hotels/ yoga retreats dotting the river bed and the stunning views of lakshman and ram jhula. After finishing the 24 kms stretch of rafting, we were tired and socked to our bones and hot pakodas and mathris set us back on track for the return journey to Haridwar.

Overrated aarti at Ganga ghat
At Haridwar, we freshened up and went to Ganga ghat for the evening aarti.  The aarti was to start by 6:30, but even at 6 the crowds were maddening and the whole place was very chaotic.  The aarti itself was nothing remarkable.  In fact, the most enjoyable experience of the evening was eating hot parathas and washing it down with lassi for dinner at one of the many dhabas at Ganga ghat.

We did not get a chance to camp overnight at Rishikesh; however, I have heard it’s a lot of fun.  One can also do other adventure activities such as zip-lining and bungee jumping in Rishikesh.  Also, I would suggest going for rafting later in the summer months when water levels are higher and the rapids are even more challenging.

Quarter 2: April = Kashmir/ May = ? / June = ?

Coming soon :)

Tuesday, February 9, 2016

Offbeat Karnataka - St Mary's Island (Udupi, Karnataka)

Note: My love for Karnataka began with an impromptu trip to Jog waterfalls, Gokarna and Murudeshwar (in 2014)(this & this). My next two short trips to Karnataka [Hampi/ Badami/Pattadakal (Oct 2015)(this & this) and Udupi/ Mangalore (Jan 2016) are testimony that its not love anymore, it's a full-blown obsession! And guess what, St Mary's Island was my #1 reason to squeeze in a trip to Mangalore during an extended weekend. Read on to know why!
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Offbeat Karnataka
Our bus passed through narrow lanes of Udupi, flanked by coconut trees on both sides. Most of the seats were occupied by locals who gave us curious glances. Our bright color clothes, hats and glares were inviting attention. Finally after passing thorough a nondescript lane, the bus suddenly arrived at the long expanse of Malpe beach, the fine sand glowing in the January sun.

Udupi, Karnataka is most visited by devotees who come here to the Krishna Math. For beach bummers, Malpe beach is a nice spot to relax at and the most popular beach in Udupi. The beach stretch is long, offers entertainment to suit all ages, boat rides, dolphin sighting, rides for kids (ferrous wheel, etc) and many food joints serving junk food, coconut water and also fresh fried fish cooked in local style (as cheap as INR 50 for a medium size fish!).

You see that tiny Island in the distance....?
But I wouldn't settle for just another beach. I was here on a mission to find crystal clear blue waters amidst, intriguing rock structures and coconut trees swaying in the breeze at St Mary's Island.

How to get to Udupi from Mangalore

We made Mangalore our base for the short vacation to Udupi and Bekal. We took a private express bus (INR 55/ person) right outside our hotel (Hotel Woodland's on Bund's hostel road - 5 minutes walk from Jyoti circle) which was going to Manipal through Udupi bus station. The frequency of express bus is very good and the ride was 
comfortable.

It normally takes 1.5 hours to cover the distance between Mangalore to Udupi on NH66 via Surathkal, Kapu (another popular beach!). However, me and my friend both dozed off before Kapu and woke up to see junk food giants (KFC, CCD, etc) on both sides of the road.  We were at Manipal and these food joints were aptly located to cater to the burgeoning student population of Manipal! Luckily, our bus was returning to Mangalore and the driver/ conductor (on realizing our goof up) was kind enough to drop us at Udupi bus station.


How to get to St Mary's Island, Udupi

St Mary's island is a tiny island off Malpe beach in Udupi. There are mini buses every few minutes from Udupi bus station to Malpe beach, just look out for screaming conductor, eager to fill the bus. That's exactly what we did and in just INR 10/ person we arrived at Malpe beach in about 15 minutes time. Alternatively, one can even take a rickshaw, usually run by the meter.


Once at Malpe, we quickly freshened up at the paid washroom (a respite for girls!) and headed to the most crowded part of the beach.  Once there, we bought a ticket for INR 200/ person (counter is a desk on the beach) to St Mary's island. There is a speed boat from Malpe to St Mary's every 15 minutes.  We boarded our boat (unfortunately we did not get front seats) and within minutes set off towards the tiny island we could see in our line of vision. The boat was much slower than what I'd have liked but it gave us the chance to spot a dolphin (dorsal fin) bobbing out of water at leisurely intervals! The ocean here had many migratory birds visiting and feasting on the fish!

Docking!

St Mary's island

The moment our boat docked, I couldn't believe the sigh in front of me!  It felt like I was back in Andaman, the lush blue water and white sand etched in my memory. Unlike Andaman, this island seemed to be quite a popular spot for the locals!

LOVE at first sight
The tall, vertical rock formations (made of baslatic lava) have interested geologists. Research suggests the basaltic lava formations were formed volcanic activity at the time when the country of Madagascar was attached to India, rifted much later.


Wikipedia tells me that this Island was declared as a National Geological Monument in 2001 by the Geological Survey of India.

Vertical limit...
Geology aside, the dark vertical rock formations and the bubbling clear blue water around them make for a stunning sight. The backdrop makes for gorgeous photos. and just fyi, this is the only place in India where such rock formation is found!

Exploring the other side of the island...
The Island, also known as 'coconut island' is very tiny.  One can walk around the entire island in about 20 minutes. The sand is fine and white and seashells are plenty.

You Beauty

We took our time walking around the Island, admiring the rock formations, dipping our feet in the sand, rifting through sea shells and generally soaking up the beach vibes.  And clicking tons of photos and spotting fish (yes the water is so clear!) from our perch, atop a vertical rock formation!


Apart from the marvels of the rocks, St Mary's is a popular spot for birding and dolphin sighting.  However, for such a tiny Island, the shoreline is rather dirty (plastic bottles, plastic, chips packets, etc).  If you are visiting the Island, I'd humbly request you to take back your trash/ use the bins.  Also, it would help if an NGO/ ferry guys (considering a fee of INR 200) organize monthly drive to clean up this island so that it remains true to its name i.e. Paradise island!

What would it be like to catch a sunset here....or perhaps camp overnight?
I would have loved to catch the sunset from St Mary's but the last ferry out is at 6 PM (if I remember correctly!). Also, we had plans to catch the from a lighthouse (more on that soon!).  Though I wish camping/ staying the night on the Island was allowed (*wishful thinking*)!

Fascinating rock formations!
I would highly recommend a day trip here, especially if you're in/ around Mangalore/ Udupi :) It's worth the effort as the spectacular landscape will leave you mesmerized!

Still not convinced....???? Watch this tiny clip!


Tips for visiting St Mary's island

  • Best time to visit the Island is between Dec to March (April/ May may be too hot and in the monsoons the ferry is shut) - Jan was lovely, though even then the sun was too harsh!
  • Dress conservatively as most tourists are locals who would probably stare at you if you're in skimpy clothes/ bathing suits [I opted for linen pants, tee, scarf and a hat!]
  • Get here early, crowded tiny Island isn't the same as peaceful tiny Island
  • Ferry guy will ask you to finish sight-seeing in 1-hour, I suppose you can stretch that to suit yourself
  • Sunscreen my friend!
  • There is no drinking water available on the Island, carry plenty with you!
  • Don't drink too much water as there is no toilet on the Island :P (use the one at Malpe beach before you get on the boat!
  • You'll find odd snacks (Bhelpuri) and ice cream here - eat at your own risk
  • Take tons of photos because St Mary's island is gorgeous! 
  • Thank me for the offbeat recommendation ;)

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